Tempranillo (Temp-rah-NEE-yoh) is getting a lot of attention these days. The recent fame of this fruity, full-bodied red wine may make it seem like a newcomer, but the Tempranillo grape has been the base of many of Spain's greatest wines for centuries. Why is this early-ripening grape (which takes its name from the Spanish word for early-temprano) so popular nowadays? We turned to Doug Frost, MS, MW, one of our editorial advisors and the author of Wines From Spain: Far From Ordinary Wine Guide, to unearth the answers.

Simply Wine Today: Did the Tempranillo grape originate in northern Spain?

Doug Frost: As far as we know, yes. Ultimately, the most accurate answer is to say that all European grapevines originated in the Middle East, but most varieties that we enjoy today seem to have developed over the last millennium in Europe. Tempranillo seems to have arisen along with its most frequent blend mates, Garnacha (also known as Grenache) and Carinena (Carignan).

SWT: Why the current renaissance of Tempranillo?

DF: Spanish wine is on fire in the U.S. market, and Tempranillo accounts for a big chunk of those new sales.

SWT: Why does Tempranillo so rarely appear on wine labels?

DF: Tempranillo hasn't yet found a good home outside of Spain. That's one of the reasons average consumers haven't heard much about it. Most European wines are labeled with their place of origin, not their grape name. So while most people have heard of Chablis, many would be surprised to know that Chablis is a place in France where the wines are legally required to be comprised of Chardonnay. But unlike Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and the like, Tempranillo has not prospered in New World wine regions, so you rarely see an American or Aussie Tempranillo.

SWT: What should consumers look for in Tempranillo or its blends?

DF: It depends. Tempranillo has been used to make many different kinds of wines: easy, simple reds; powerful, dense reds; and long-aged, earthy reds. Traditional Rioja (of which Tempranillo is the main grape) is aged a long time in oak, so it loses all its big fruit and tastes soft, earthy, and even mushroomy. It has notes of fig and raisins, yet is totally dry. Some new Tempranillos are the polar opposite, with powerful color, aromas, and flavors, and might remind some people of a full-throttle Napa Merlot.

SWT: What foods pair well with Tempranillo?

DF: Grilled and roasted red meats.

SWT: Australian plantings of Tempranillo doubled in the early 2000s. Why?

DF: The Aussies are smart wine marketers. They've heard that Spanish wines are hot in the U.S. and around the world. So they're trying their hands at Tempranillo but with mixed results so far.

SWT: What is the future of Tempranillo in the U.S.?

DF: Tempranillo is probably never going to make special wines in California. It has very particular climate needs that the state can't necessarily fulfill. On the other hand, eastern Washington State looks very promising. The steep temperature swings (warm days, cold nights) found there may provide good conditions for this grape.